Dumbarton Rock

Guy and I headed south because we are going to be spending a few days in Glasgow. Before we got there we stopped off at Dumbarton Rock, neither of us had been there before so we didn't know what to expect. Guy warmed up on an E1 called Longbow, which was a brilliant crack climb with some great moves. I was up next and I went for the HVS called Windjammer, my head wasn't in the right place. So I decided not to try anything stupid it would be a very bad idea for me to get injured at the moment, Guy took my place instead.
To stay safe we got on the sport routes after putting the clips in Guy made a clean lead of Persistence of Vision (7a+). I linked all the moves but will need to come back to do it clean.

The great overhanging head wall at Dumbarton

I wouldn't agree with this young persons opinion

Guy on persistence of vision


Bolt Clippin

The weather is still gorgeous in Lochaber so I am not letting it go to waste. I was hoping to head up into the the hills howevermy climbing partner had to be back early so we headed out towards Glen Finnan for some bolt clipping.

Johann on 7a+


Here Comes the Sun

The Sun has been out in force over the past couple of days however I have been doing nothing but nursing a sprained ankle. Although today I thought I should test it out on some easy rock climbs so Craig and I headed down the glen. We weren't the only ones enjoying the sun the fair weather climbers had also come out of hibernation.
We headed straight up to Styx buttress and I led us up Iche (VS 5a*). After abbing down Craig jumped on to Ressurection (VS 4c***), then I had a go at Damnnation (VS 4c**), after which the sun was at its highest point and we were melting, and had to call it a day.

Me on Iche


Mini Rock Trip

I arrived back from a mini climbing trip yesterday with Guy, Johann and Ben. I had a great time and can't wait to get out and do even more climbing. It was great to have such a good laugh and I am now just looking forward to more of it.
So I will sum up the trip.
Day 1 Duntelchaig - 70ft Wall

Razor flake direct HVS (5b*) rain threatening. Bent Peg (HVS 5c) raining, used aid, walk off, stepped in poo (human).
70ft wall (HVS 5b) thuggy not quite with it! Sun.
Looked for Misty Crack (E1 5b*) didn't find it. Found it fell off the last move, sore head!

Me on 70ft Wall (photo Guy Steven)
Guy and Ben on Slings
Day 2 Uppercave Crag

Johann in Coffin Corner (HVS 5b**)
Coffin Corner (HVS 5b**).
Squirm (E1 5c*) great fun
Death Head (E1 5b*)
Johann Attempts Rat Race (E4 6a***) leaves it for another day.
I attempt Corpse (E2 5c**) Guy leaves Ben on a ledge and I get stuck one. 'Top rope please'
Ben and I get rescued by Guy.

Day 3 Myopics Buttress

Johann on Marlene
Chopping Block (7b+***) feel fat and weak.
Eat more cake then head to Upper Cave Crag.
Pull on Marlene (7b+***) much harder than chopping block. Rain


Loving the East

I headed east again today but this time it was to Duntelchaig with Jamie Bankhead. As usualthe day started off with the rain hitting the windscreen but by the time we past Fort Augustus e could see patches of blue sky.
First we headed to Pinnacle Crag and started off with Pinnacle Face (severe) then climbed Jam Crack (VS 5a), The Wall (E1 5b) and Confidence Wall (Vdiff).
At pinnacle we were joined by Active Outdoor Pursuits who were doing an SPA training.
After a spot of lunch we headed to 70ft Wall to witness Andy Nisbet make light work of Razor Flake (HVS 5a*), after which I had a great time on Slings (E1 5b**).
We finished off the day by going to the top of the crag and climbing Mica Arete (MSevere*).

Jamie pulling on The Wall

Jamie leading Mica Arete


Moy Rock

Gill and I headed out to climb on some crazy conglomerate over near Conon Bridge today. Like every morning this week we woke up to rain in the Fort. I have recently realised that it only requires a forty minute drive east and everything is bone dry. Gill had to be in Inverness for four which is why we were so far east.
This isn't in any guide books as far as I am aware but the topo can be printed off of Scottishclimbs.com or here http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Moy_Rock.
To find the crag from the Maryburgh roundabout take the Ullapool road (A835) and drive about 3 miles westward looking out for a forest entrance with a footpath signpost on the right hand side of the road. The forestry commission have cut all the trees so the crag can be seen from the road now.
The crag is relatively new so there is potential for more lines. I don't know who bolted it but they have done a great job with their bolt placements and grading of the climbs.
We climbed Pebble Party (5+*), The Fly (6a**), Little Teaser (6b+**) and The Dark Side(6c**). All great routes but the later two being my favourite.


Creag Dubh

Well considering winter is no longer here at least the rock is dry for some early cragging. I met up with Craig after a semi late start at Creag Dubh. Most of the crag was bone dry apppart from excess seapage on a few of the routes.
We started with Inbred (HVS 5a***) which was good fun and nothing too commiting but you could tell it had been a while. After a spot of lunch we climbed King Bee Direct (HVS 5a***). A fantastic variation which takes you out over an imposing overhang that looks much worse than it actually is. Craig then led the second pitch which goes at VS 5a and takes you to an exposed belay/descent. In hindsight should have abseiled off here but I led up the last pitch which really wasn't worth it (10m of rock climbing + 10m of slippy wet moss climbing gives you the 20m pitch).
Felt great to be back on trad again looking forward to the summer.

Craig on the second pitch of Inbred (HVS 4b)

Oh suit you

Abbing off to finish the day


Tree update on the Spean

So Bridget and I headed for a quick run down the Spean. Since Sunday when I last paddled it, the level has dropped somewhat down below the gauge (way less than 1) as well as making the run slightly harder it also allowed us to see the trapped trees that are in the gorge.
This is in a tight constriction that will only be visible  when the river is very low.

At this level you could quite happily fit under it and at 2.5 you could scrape over it with little difficulties however I wouldn't like to get it in between nor be swimming towards it.

The tree are obivously coutesy of Hurricane Bawbag  you should be able to see these and make a safe decision with plenty of time to spare but don't get caught out all the same.