24/01/2013

Naebodies Fault

Jamie and I met up with David Crawford today in Arrochar for a chance to do a new route, that David had scoped out the previous week.
When we arrived at the crag it was shrouded by clouds which meant we didn't know where to start however we got a small break which allowed us to pick our line. David started on the first pitch with an impressive lead on quite a tricky little section.
It must have been my lucky day because the next lead got handed to me which turned out to be the crux and the best pitch. The idea of climbing a route having no clue what could lie ahead of me was quite a daunting feeling however it felt magic to finish off the pitch with an end in sight.

Davie and Jamie on the first pitch
Me on the second pitch
Photo Courtesy of David Crawford

Photo Courtesy of David Crawford

Davie checking out our route
Davie's discription of the route-

Naebody's Fault 135m (IV,4/5) *
Start below a distinctive square- cut flake near the right end of a snow terrace, left of (and 30m up) from Chockstone Chimney.
1. 25m Climb a wall past the flake to a snow terrace. Traverse leftwards to a belay below a short chimney.
2. 40m Climb the chimney and then leftwards up a steep wall and overlap to enter a prominent groove. Climb the groove and ice bulge above.
70m follow your preferred line up Grade II ground to the top

The split tech grade is because the ice bulge on pitch 2 would be easier (tech 4) with a bit more ice. It was a good wee route and the conditions were very good.

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