28/03/2013

Orion Face Direct

So this route has been climbed a lot this season and every other season. It's probably on been every climbers tick list since 1960 after its first ascent its been on mine for a while now. There is not much more that can be said about this route either but it is probably the best route I have and will ever climb in Britain.

When I was getting up yesterday at five in the morning I didn't think it was going to be getting home at nine at night. Walking in the weather couldn't have been better lilac skies and not breath of wind in the air. After panicking all the way up to the route about people being in front of us we couldn't believe it when we arrived there before anyone else.

We got started on the route and found the ice to be in brilliant condition but not thick enough to take any screws. It soon became apparent that getting gear and belays was going to be tricky. After a while it became apparent that it was becoming an issue. It took a long time to place protection and even longer to get good belays placed. It took us a while to realise that this was eating away at the time so before we knew it we were climbing well into the evening.







I was so glad to top out the on the summit the route didn't ease off until the top. When we hit the summit it was a long walk down to McDonald's for a Fanta Orange, I don't know why but all I could think about on the way down was a Fanta Orange.


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